So you just got your new Zen Outfitters silk line! Now what?
Before using your line for the first time, you will need to attach the line to the backing on your reel. I recommend new, modern synthetic line backing to promote proper drying. Old backing may cause mold issues that will damage the fly line over time. The best backing would be a 20 or 30# test Dacron. Do not use Nylon, it degrades quickly in ultraviolet light and also absorbs water. You want to use the maximum amount of backing that the reel will hold, that means the fly line is in looser coils when on the reel and each turn of the reel handle brings in more line. A good way to determine the maximum backing is to tape the tip of your silk line to the reel arbor with painter’s tape, wind your line on, then use a simple jam knot to temporarily attach the silk line to the backing. Then just reel on as much backing as will fit well, and cut the backing at that point.
If your line is a weight forward (WF), or a single taper (all half lines are single taper-ST), and you opted for loops to be tied on your line, there will be one end that is tied/whipped with black thread. This goes to your backing.
Also, be aware that a silk fly line is actually 3 lines in one. Straight from the box, untreated, it is a sinking line. Treated with Snake Oil or other line treatment, it is a floating line. Wipe off the floatant on the tip section of the line, and it is a sink tip line.
However, a ST line can be reversed and used for short casts as a level line in tight quarters.
It is recommended that you apply any line treatment (if needed) before heading to the water. It’s much easier doing this at home, and cleaner, too.
Each Zen Outfitters silk line is meticulously laid out and finished by hand to the highest possible standards. They are not made of plastic in a factory by machines. For that reason, they do require a little more care in ownership. These are the do’s and don’ts of silk line use, care, maintenance and storage to ensure the maximum use and enjoyment of your investment for many years to come.
Let’s start with the don’t….
Don’t ever store your silk line in a hot, enclosed space for more than a few hours. The proprietary finish on our lines consists of natural seed oils, which cure, or polymerize, rather than dries. Polymerization is when small chain molecules form a larger chain molecule, creating a permanent bond, this, combined with the braided silk, form your fly line. Because it polymerizes, rather than drying (such as a wood varnish like urethane), it remains supple, because it takes literally YEARS to fully cure. High heat can cause changes to the polymerization that lead to sticky lines that will need to be refinished. The same is true for storing it where it can’t breathe. Never store a line in a plastic bag for this reason.
Don’t use any chemicals on your fly line, as it will likely damage the finish! To clean a dirty line, simply place it in a tub of warm water and mild dish detergent, then pull it through a clean towel. Repeat with clean water (no detergent) and allow to air dry in loose coils or on a line drier.
Don’t add Snake Oil or other floatant/line grease to a wet line, as this will trap moisture inside the line, not allowing it to dry. This will cause rot and breakage over time. Remember to let your line breathe.
And the DO’s…
Do allow the line to thoroughly dry after each use. This can be done in many ways, and doesn’t need to be complicated. If you have a line drier, great! If not, laying it in loose coils on a clean dry surface overnight will do the trick (keep in mind it has oil/floatant on it, you may want to lay down newspaper, etc.). Once dried, simply reel the line back onto the reel, pulling the line through a soft cloth with Snake Oil or other line treatment (for floating line). It is not necessary to use a ton of floatant; a thin layer is all that is needed. Too much dressing will only gum the guides as well as trap dirt, causing the line to sink. Less is more.
Do periodically check your rod’s guides and tip top for wear or nicks that may have occurred in scrambling over rocks. At the start of the season, pull a fine piece of fabric through each of the guides to check for anything that might abrade your line. This is a good practice no matter what type of line you use.
Do enjoy your new Zen Outfitters silk fly line! With simple care, your line should last for years with no additional care, other than mentioned above. Enjoy the experience that you can only get from silk, and please let me know if I can answer any further questions!
What floatant/line treatment should I use?
The “dressing” applied to a silk line is hydrophobic – it pushes the water away from the line surface, thus causing the line, which is heavier than water, to float in the surface film. The same principle floats a dry fly with floatant applied. PVC fly lines, on the other hand, don’t float in the surface film, they sink into the surface until they displace enough water to support them. You will notice the difference the first time you cast your silk line on still water.
There are quite a few choices in line dressings. Our Snake Oil Floatant for dry flies and treating furled leaders long before I ever made a silk line, and has been in use in the production of our furled leaders since the very beginning. It is made entirely of cosmetic grade natural and synthetic ingredients, and is safe for any lines, and even your hands. We also sell a cleaning kit on my site that contains a 2 oz tin of treatment, along with a zip bag of synthetic chamois cloths for your convenience.